Teak decks what to do

<< First  < Prev   1   2   Next >  Last >> 
  • March 30, 2016 6:51 PM
    Message # 3920169
    Deleted user

    Our boat penguin has teak decks.. They are weathered, like a topographic map. Most to all off the bungs/plugs are gone and the seams are coming up. Leaks were never a problem in the desert where the boat is from, but now here in Florida it dumps water. 

    So now I'm looking at all the exposed screws and seams wet with the afternoon treanchal downpour and wondering what kind of rot is happening... To make it worse the girl says they have to stay....as in there's no point in owning a boat without teak decks...

    I've done about a weeks worth of research and have come up with these solutions 

    1. Pull screws counter sink what little I have left... Screw, calking, bung holes 

    2. Pull decks epoxy holes glue decks back down... No holes 

    3. Pull screws epoxy holes and let the decks ride on existing glue (no screws)

    4. Do away with decks. Epoxy, glass, and kiwigrip 

    5. Do nothing 

    Im wondering with all the westsail knowledge of anyone has tried any of these unorthodox teak fixes... Any advise helps. Bear in mind I want to cruise the boat not just work on it 

  • March 30, 2016 6:58 PM
    Reply # 3920173 on 3920169
    Deleted user

    I forgot to add we were debating calking all the screw holes then putting the screw back in to hopefully seal them.. 

  • March 30, 2016 7:09 PM
    Reply # 3920194 on 3920169

    I vote for #4 ASAP.  There are only about 840 screw holes, and it can all be done in 7 days or so.  Good luck

  • March 31, 2016 6:12 AM
    Reply # 3920873 on 3920169


    I recaulked my teak deck and bought materials to rebung the whole deck.  Here is the layout:

    Tools and caulk from Teak Decking Solutions: $1500 (you get a discount for quantity)

    Ripping the seams: 2 days

    Sanding and cleaning the seams: 1 day

    Tape the seams and boards: 1 day

    Caulk and haul tape: 2 days

    Bunging: 2 days or so depending on the number of bungs

    Sand the deck to personal level of finish: 2 days

    All of these things I did in segments over about 6 months as I was working solo and performing 40 other projects.

    Do I regret it? Nope. They are beautiful, strong, and a marvelous non-skip (especially in bare feet)  It was a lot of work, but worth it.  Then in the future stay on top of the bungs (I have a few more to do as well.  There is a lot of money in teak aboard there, just take care of it.  I am leaving anything that is potential non-skid grey because it is much better for the teak that way and oil eats the caulking.  Talk with Roberto at TDS, and he will help you out.

    If I were to do it again, I would haul up all the boards and glue down with the TDS deck epoxy, repair, seam, etc.

    Cheers and good luck!


  • March 31, 2016 6:34 PM
    Reply # 3922143 on 3920169

    My vote is to restore , Westsystem used to publish a paper on how to get rid of the screw and then you would put in a piece of materiel and soak it with the Westepox and then that be the new fastener and you could c'bore a little deeper . Hopefully you wouldn't need to do that to all the deck but it could help if you have a problem spot . Man I love teak decks.  

  • April 01, 2016 8:40 AM
    Reply # 3923408 on 3920169
    Deleted user

    Thanks for the information. The girl loves the decks and so must I. to do away with the screws and go to all epoxy would be a dream.. I see all the screws as potential for rot.. we have a lot of work ahead of us.



  • April 01, 2016 4:31 PM
    Reply # 3924105 on 3920169

    I redid mine and then redid them again. 

    Then I took them off.   NO LEAKS NOW.

  • April 01, 2016 6:55 PM
    Reply # 3924151 on 3920169

    Hey Kirby , check this . The girls walk by my boat showing some interest , they check the deck and then the noes goes up the head turns and they keep walking .  

    PS , I do not have teak decks .

    Last modified: April 01, 2016 7:02 PM | Anonymous member
  • April 04, 2016 11:39 AM
    Reply # 3928415 on 3920169
    Deleted user


    I am with Dave option #4.

    But because the girl loves them soooo much; 

    Here is the very best option, get a lot of beer! and set up a chair in the shade next to the boat. Then line up the girl with the above description of how to redo the deck, then let her get after it. Make sure you put sun screen on her and make her take breaks for water. And you may need to give her a massage every night so she can do it again tomorrow, but in the end you will have a happy girl (?) and a happy boat for a few years. You may have to get a second girl for the rework in a few years as the first one may not go for it again.

    Hope this helps


    If you just need the look there are some options. LPU is nice! a step above the gray teak look, but not as nice as; just finished teak deck. BUT LPU looks to last 10 to 15 years without leaks or refinish. (did this to the cap rails and so far so good)

    if you need the nonskid, Peel Ply will leave a surface that is unequaled for wetted nonskid (much much better than teak), You just can't clean it!  :(  this could work out if you painted the black seams (black gel coat) and covered them with the peel ply before setting. For my bowsprit I have used the nonskid silica (I know, I know hard to remove) in the clear coat on top of the fake teak (the paint) = seams to be an ok Option +/-.

    One BIG NOTE on LPU. you can not leave it under water!!!!!!! it is permeable and the water will blisster up under it (note to others; change tack every 4 to 6 hrs else in 4 to 5 days, you will have water blisters between the LPU and the fiberglass, on the part of the hull that was under water for days.)

    Last modified: April 04, 2016 12:05 PM | Deleted user
  • April 08, 2016 6:30 AM
    Reply # 3935774 on 3920169


    I forgot to mention that I actually routered all the grooves down a minimum of a 1/2" for recaulking because many of the grooves on my deck were sanded close to the surface, or were not deep enough in the first place.

    Do what you please, knowing ye may be in the minority if you keep the deck.  Note that my boat is a 1976, so 40 years old with a 40 year old deck.  I have one small spot of rot in a place between the cockpit and companion-way, but I'm not worried about it because of the location, and I will be re-bunging a couple screws there.


<< First  < Prev   1   2   Next >  Last >> 
Powered by Wild Apricot Membership Software