Teak decks what to do

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  • April 20, 2016 1:27 PM
    Reply # 3974474 on 3920169

    I'd vote for keeping the decks and best case, bedding in epoxy per the West manual.  I have teak decks that are in rough shape but I really want to keep them.  I have a tin of bunks that are popped and some serious sanding to do, but I am thinking that it may make sense to just pull the boards, do the epoxy, sealing the deck, and run the boards through the planer instead of all the sanding. In spite of all the issues I think the teak decks are one of the most attractive things about my boat.


  • April 20, 2016 8:23 PM
    Reply # 3975024 on 3920169
    Deleted user

    Teak decks are beautiful and time consuming.  Our decks were in terrible shape when we got Tyee.  We removed the teak filled the holes and sanded smooth.  I also removed the caprails as these were broken and over sanded to the point of replacement.  We then gel coated in sections.  We didn't have a sprayer so brushed and rolled four coats on each section.  Overkill maybe but sands as smooth as a spray job.  Funny thing is though after sanding one part and noticing the difference in the smooth vs. rough gelcoat we decided at least for now to leave it rough.  I haven't slipped on it yet.  Still early to confirm this but if I don't have to put down  nonskid I'm happy.  One of these days I'll get pics up.  Been meaning to show off my new mahogany caprails anyway.  When the girl gets tiered of fixing and cleaning the teak gelcoat is not as hard as some make it out to be.

  • April 22, 2016 9:00 AM
    Reply # 3978297 on 3920169


    I have the teak decks (1974 W32) and chose to keep them.  It took me about a month's worth of work (alone), replacing five planks near the cockpit, cutting out the old seam caulk, regrooving by hand (I used a narrow chisel and a reciprocating saw - Fein Multimaster) and 70 tubes of caulk, then sanded with a belt sander with 120 grit.  Take it slow, drink lots of ice cold beer, and just tackle one section at a time.  I ended up replacing about 70% of the bungs and still have to replace about three dozen each year.  I needed an impact driver (the kind you whack with a hammer) to get the screws backed out but it's not too bad of a job.  

    To maintain them I scrub them with Tilex.  Just wet down a ten square foot section at time with water, spray Tilex on it, let it sit for about two minutes and scrub it with a kitchen scrubby, the plastic mesh type, which will not hurt the teak.  You'll be amazed at how much black mold and crap comes up!   Hose off the dirt and you'll see nice light golden teak decks.  I do it about two or three times a year.  I should add that I'm doing it with all my teak.  I know varnished trim is "bristol" but I can't see the sense in continual sanding and revarnishing, especially here in Florida.   A long time sailor once told me that bronze should be green and teak gray.   I figured he knew a hell of a lot more about it all than me. 

    All that being said, if I discovered rot I think I would opt to tear off the teak and go with epoxy and non-skid rather than redo the decks again.   It's tough work on your hands and knees for weeks and especially if you're over 60!  

    Good luck and enjoy the boat.

    Tom Koehl - S/V Second Wind

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