Cap Rails

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  • January 31, 2013 10:39 AM
    Message # 1194732
    Deleted user

    Hi guys,

     Well I finally purchased Juanita Mae, she is hull #558 located in Homer Alaska.  The PO had removed the origonal cap rails and replaced them with somekind of plastic/rubber rails, I'm not impressed with the way it looks or convinced it will do the job of keeping water out.  So my question is this, Is there a place that makes replacement wood cap rails for the westsail 32? I dont need the curved portions from the bow and stern, just the long flat pieces that run on top of the bullwork.  I know and have read some westsail owners have made them but I dont have the skills or facility to complete such a task.  I dont even have the old cap rails to use as a mold. any advise would be greatly appreciated.  On a side note I also found that the forward chain locker bulkhead has some rot and will need to be replaced as well but that doesnt seem to difficult a task. 

  • January 31, 2013 11:52 AM
    Reply # 1194831 on 1194732
    Deleted user
    Well after many many many many many many re-varnishing coats, or cetol coats; I am back to stripping and refinishing the rails, cheeks and bow platform again. 

    So I would not recommend putting wood on the top of the bulworks! Unless you are selling the boat, as it appears buyers love (just love) the look of wood on the top of the rail and that love affair lasts somewhere from 3 to 6 years then turns to hate afair, for all wood above deck.

    Some options
    1.) For me I rebeded them in 1998, most likely, I will strip them, then epoxy them, and then paint them with LPU to look like wood which they are. (later I can strip the paint and varnish over the epoxy) and sell it to a buyer who has not passed the 3 to 6 year love for wood period.

    2.) If I did not have rails, I would use good structural foam or some teak or plastic wood planking core to glass to the hull and glass over it to produce the width and look of the original rail (about 4" wide and a little thicker than the 13/16" original to a new 1.25" thk with a bit of a crown) and then sand it and paint it with LPU to look like wood.
       a.) you need solid material (wood or alike) under the hardware (no foam there)
       b.) I would use a router guided off the bullwork to round over the inboard edges then use the new inboard edge as a guide to make the outside 4"+ width from the inside (easy and fast)
       c.) It pays to be good with a random orbital sander and a router
       d.) easier done without the hardware in place

    3.) Just glass over the rail without the cap (does not look so good in my opinion) and not an option for me as it is about 2.7" wide +/-

    4.) If you look through the WOA web site I think Someone redid the caprail with plastic wood and used no finish at all (looked ok)

    5.) Get some teak boards and make new rails, it is not that hard, 160 to 200 Man hour job,  If you can't, then please please! have enough $$$$$$$ that you can pay some one to do the whole job +/-. should be around 12 to 15K.   I do hate to see w32's out there rotting because of a dreamer without skills or $$$$$$$$'s, just wishing, and you do know all the wishing in the world will not get a job done. I think this is why many westsails are so cheap in the market place.

    6.)  some nice pictures are at http://www.westsail.org/intheyardforum?mode=MessageList&eid=1142938

    I hope this helps, and please please do bring your new W32 back into top form. Both you and everyone else will enjoy it so very much. They do require much time and Money but they are a great boat.



    Last modified: January 31, 2013 3:54 PM | Deleted user
  • January 31, 2013 7:25 PM
    Reply # 1195254 on 1194732
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Michael:

    An additional resource for members on cap rail repair - in addition to Norm's message.  I'll be adding Norm's comments...

    Steve VanTuyl  with Dave King - created an all fiberglass cap rail  

    Lots of choices - and the amount of work will keep you busy.

    Jay 

     

    Last modified: January 31, 2013 7:38 PM | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • January 31, 2013 7:47 PM
    Reply # 1195268 on 1194732
    Deleted user
    I was thinking that plastic wood would be a good alternative too, water-proof and lasts indefinitely. 

    There is a company that makes the stuff that I drive by every day on the way to work:

    http://www.syntalproducts.com/default.asp

    I could probably score a free sample if anyone was interested. It is about twice the weight of wood, and I don't think you can use nails. Read their recommendations for how to work with it, it's very informative.
  • February 01, 2013 5:53 AM
    Reply # 1195553 on 1194732
    Deleted user
    Solstice, the W32 referred to 2 posts up, was at the PNW rendezvous last summer.  We had heard that there was a boat there that had done away with the caprails and decided wejust had to see it.  Well, we walked right by her on our first pass, even though we were scoping out all the boats looking for one with no caprails.  It wasn't until our second pass down the dock that we spotted her.  We were quite impressed with how nice she looked.  If our boat ever gets to the point where we need to do extensive caprail repair, I'd seriously consider this approach.  Click on Steve VanTuyl's name in the post and take a look at the photos for yourself.

    -Steve
  • February 01, 2013 6:08 AM
    Reply # 1195561 on 1194732
    Deleted user
    I am having a machine shop cut and roll the the caprail out of 5052 3/8 inch aluminum plate. This will add about 100 pounds of weight. I won't know how satisfied I will be with this change until I see the finished installation. I am sanding and prepping the hull and topside for painting before I install the caprail. I have decided to fill the hull/deck joint with 3M 4000. I will try to send pictures when the caprail is installed. Ennis Kay
  • February 01, 2013 7:35 AM
    Reply # 1195651 on 1194732
    Deleted user
    Would there be a step by step directions for the cap rail elimination? This summer I will do  the caps one way or the other. Thanks nick.
  • February 01, 2013 2:13 PM
    Reply # 1195960 on 1194732
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Assuming that you are a full member - you have access to the Members area > Westsail FAQ and there is a topic on the caprails with a write up by yours truly...

    Jay

  • February 01, 2013 2:37 PM
    Reply # 1195978 on 1195561
    Deleted user
    Ennis Kay wrote:I am having a machine shop cut and roll the the caprail out of 5052 3/8 inch aluminum plate. This will add about 100 pounds of weight. I won't know how satisfied I will be with this change until I see the finished installation. I am sanding and prepping the hull and topside for painting before I install the caprail. I have decided to fill the hull/deck joint with 3M 4000. I will try to send pictures when the caprail is installed. Ennis Kay

    This is interesting.  Did you make patterns out of cardboard or hardboard for the machine shop to get the appropriate curve?  Why not glass the joint so the seam is permanently sealed then add the aluminum?  Just asking.  Love to see the pics.
  • February 01, 2013 3:53 PM
    Reply # 1196054 on 1195978
    Anonymous
    Edward Herold wrote:
    Ennis Kay wrote:I am having a machine shop cut and roll the the caprail out of 5052 3/8 inch aluminum plate. This will add about 100 pounds of weight. I won't know how satisfied I will be with this change until I see the finished installation. I am sanding and prepping the hull and topside for painting before I install the caprail. I have decided to fill the hull/deck joint with 3M 4000. I will try to send pictures when the caprail is installed. Ennis Kay

    This is interesting.  Did you make patterns out of cardboard or hardboard for the machine shop to get the appropriate curve?  Why not glass the joint so the seam is permanently sealed then add the aluminum?  Just asking.  Love to see the pics.


    I've often wondered if glassing in the seam will hold up.  Will it crack or is it stout enough to make it? 
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