Fat stanchion help

  • July 06, 2013 10:05 PM
    Message # 1334598
    Deleted user
    My stanchions are 1 5/8" in diameter. Id like to connect a tube between my aft stanchions ( to mount a solar panel ) but can not find any hardware. I have seen TACO brand for bimini tubes but i need something much larger. Any ideas? 
  • July 07, 2013 2:52 AM
    Reply # 1334658 on 1334598
    Michael,

    The stanchion and lifeline section of Bud's new site (http://WestsailParts.com) has the parts for typical lifeline applications. To find the larger ones you need, simply call or email Bud directly. There is no simpler (or cost-effective) way to find what you need for this.

    Jack
  • July 07, 2013 7:05 AM
    Reply # 1334771 on 1334598
    Michael Abrain wrote:My stanchions are 1 5/8" in diameter. Id like to connect a tube between my aft stanchions ( to mount a solar panel ) but can not find any hardware. I have seen TACO brand for bimini tubes but i need something much larger. Any ideas? 


    Why not just fabricate your own?  Here is what I did to mount solar panels between the boom gallows and the next stanchion forward.  All that is needed are the materials, a hacksaw and a drill.

    I used 1/4" X 2 1/2" flat aluminum stock. From this I made 4 pieces 6" long.  Note you will need wider stock as my stanchions are the puny 1" variety.

    Each piece is clamped to the stanchion vertically (and outboard) using two SS U-bolts.  I forget the size of the u-bolt but the inside dimension of the U-bolt matches the width/diameter of the stanchion perfectly.  The two U-bolts are located on the "bottom half" of each piece about 1 3/4" apart. 

    On the "top half" of the aluminum piece I used two more U-bolts oriented 90 deg (perpendicular) to the bottom U-Bolts.  These U-Bolts hold the horizontal SS tube (also 1" but HD walled for rigidity) that supports the solar panel between the boom gallows and the stanchion.  Note the horizontal tube does not 'conflict' with the stanchion since it is outboard while the stanchion is inboard (with the plate between).

    Finally, I 'finished' by using capnuts/acorn nuts for the U-bolts instead of regular nuts.

    Legend 
    * = holes for U-bolt

    -----------------------------
    |       *         ||       *     |  These U-bolts are oriented vertically
    | ================|==================== (support tube)
    |       *         ||       *     |
    |                 ||              |
    |                 ||              |
    |       *        ||         *    |  these U-bolts are oriented horizontally
    |                 ||              |
    |       *        ||         *    |
    -----------------------------
                       ||
                       ||    
              (stanchion)

    I also used the same aluminum stock to make supports for the solar panel (2 per solar panel). Obviously longer (approx 2 1/2 ft each) these 'straps' were bolted vertically to the top & bottom of the frame. I located them equidistantly by basically dividing the length of the panel into thirds. I then used a Delrin 'rail clamp' mounted to each 'strap' to clamp the panels to the horizontal tube.

    http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|5948|311443|296535&id=2014957


    caveat - you do not want to simply mount these clamps in the middle of the panel.  They will need to be 'offset' toward the top because otherwise when the panels are horizontal it will block the way forward due to the location of the forward stanchion.  Mount the clamps such that the bottom of the panel is only about 3-4" above the caprail (i.e. just enough not to block using the cleat, etc.when the panels are vertical/not in use)

    This setup has proven to be extremely cheap, simple and solid and there is nothing in retrospect I would have done different.  Hopefully my description is adequate. I would include a picture but I've never been successful in attaching or including pictures.
    Last modified: July 08, 2013 6:59 PM | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • July 07, 2013 7:36 AM
    Reply # 1334787 on 1334658
    Jack Webb wrote:Michael,

    The stanchion and lifeline section of Bud's new site (http://WestsailParts.com) has the parts for typical lifeline applications. To find the larger ones you need, simply call or email Bud directly. There is no simpler (or cost-effective) way to find what you need for this.

    Jack


    Wow! Cool!  I didn't know this existed until now.
  • July 08, 2013 5:31 AM
    Reply # 1335291 on 1334598
    Deleted user
    Thanks Mike I may in fact have to fab up my own. 
  • July 08, 2013 9:18 AM
    Reply # 1335483 on 1334598
    Anonymous

    Get your hands on two of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/45-OD-45mm-1-75-Sanitary-Weld-TEE-3-Way-Pipe-Fitting-Stainless-Steel-304-New-/281015229479#ht_4277wt_1037

     

    It is a 1.75 O.D. stainless TEE and the I.D. should be just big enough to allow you to slip it over the stanchion and then you can drill some holes through it and the stanchion for bolts to secure it.  One on each stanchion should let you then run a 1 5/8" pipe* in between them.  If there is something interfering with sliding it down over the stanchion you could cut the back side off and still through bolt it on which would be plenty strong I think.

     

    *Note, this can work for 1" cross pipe too if you put in a nylon bushing available from Ace Hardware.  You may need to modify the bushing slightly to get a proper fit but the material is easily worked with basic tools.

     

    Mike

    Last modified: July 08, 2013 9:41 AM | Anonymous
  • July 08, 2013 11:40 AM
    Reply # 1335787 on 1334598

    I talked with my stainless fabricator today, who makes all of my stanchions and rails.  He has a simple solution that he has done before for this conversion.

    Cut the tubing you plan to use for the railing about 1/2" longer than the space between the support stanchions.  Grind out a cup on each end of the tubing the same diameter of the stanchions.  Weld a nut into the tube on each end, flush with the bottom of the cutout, of the same thread size of stainless eyebolts you plan to use.  Drill holes in the stanchions, if they do not already have holes in them for the wire lifelines, and with the rail in place, tighten down the eyebolts.  You now have a fixed tube, with eyes on either side of the stanchions to attach your wire lifelines.

    Sometimes the simplest solution is the easiest.

    Bud.

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