• September 04, 2014 11:49 AM
    Message # 3092573

    I have to replace the thermostat on my 4-236. Think it is similar to the 4-108 but not  sure. I have 3 of the 4 bolts out on the header tank but am having a hell of a time on the 4th.

    I'm wondering about taking the thermostat housing off, the item the thermostat sits in and is attached to the engine block.

    Has anyone had to do this and what difficulties do I need to look for?

    I'm on  day 4 working on extracting this bolt. I cut the head off the bolt  thinking I could then slide the tank off but the bolt is frozen to the tank. I've been soaking in BP Blaster and now have the tank clamped with shim and pressure on the bolt so it should move but doesn't. I'm going to add some heat with a heat gun today to the tank and hopefully get a little movement. I don't think I've had any so far.

    Thanks in advance.

    It's hell working on a boat in Paradise. I'm in Tahiti and I would rather be walking around then hanging out in my engine room. :)


    Last modified: September 04, 2014 11:50 AM | Anonymous member
  • September 05, 2014 6:59 AM
    Reply # 3093413 on 3092573


    I did a bit of searching, but could not find anything that might help. So, I took the liberty of writing to Sheri Moon at TAD (Trans-Atlantic Diesel) for suggestions and gave her a link to your post. TAD has always been helpful in such situations. I hope it helps. I know it must be pure hell being in Tahiti, spending your time working on the engine.

    Also, you might want to direct an email to Bud. I'd be really surprised if he didn't also have an answer. I would expect him to reply quickly to an email (or Skype call), though it's likely he won't see your post immediately.

    Jack Webb

  • September 05, 2014 10:49 AM
    Reply # 3093571 on 3092573

    Following was the reply from TAD (Trans Atlantic Diesels)...



    I wish I had an easy remedy for your problem. Unfortunately the answer is tenacity, which I realize is not as readily available in a hot climate.Wooden wedges driven between the tank and the head is a good way to keep even pressure applied while you hope the penetrating fluid goes to work. Use a good quality product such as Liquid Wrench.
    Don't forget to use anti seize compound when re assembling. Good Luck !


    Marcus Neville
    Trans Atlantic Diesels, Inc.

    ... and, per Dave Kall...

    "I got it out by cleaning out some of the gasket and cutting the bolt. Then used an easy out to extract the threaded stud. Now I just need to get the bolt out of the tank."

    All's well that ends well! I'm sure glad that I'm sitting here in the Everglades working on my boat, rather than being stuck into Tahiti, like Dave  ;-)

    Last modified: September 05, 2014 11:45 AM | Anonymous member
  • September 06, 2014 11:11 AM
    Reply # 3094022 on 3092573

    Thanks Jack for the assistance. To avoid having to cut and paste a lot I've been detailing this issues and results on our blog:  for the beginning of the project. 

    One thing I've discovered is that there are two different thermostats for the 4-236 and guess what I have, the wrong one.  If you're still in port and the land of instant everything either replace what you have with a new or buy all available for your unit. We've hunted everywhere in Tahiti and there is NO replacements.  Shipping will be quite costly! As well as time at the dock.

    Oh, and there is one more thing. There are two fittings immediately below the header tank on the right side facing the flywheel that move water. I don't understand what they do. I have the 4-236 shop manual but it does not include the various mariaziations of the engines. Thanks all.


    Last modified: September 06, 2014 11:12 AM | Anonymous member
  • April 13, 2015 10:04 AM
    Reply # 3296631 on 3092573

    Hi Dave - can you share where you got your injector elbow (actually the 180 degree turn injector elbow 'plus') for your 4-236?  We have the same arrangement.  And a source for the little elbow for the raw water hose to the injector elbow that you replaced?    Our similar vintage Perkins has the same arrangement and is coming due for the same updates.  Thanks for all the good info on your blog! 

  • April 14, 2015 9:00 AM
    Reply # 3298077 on 3092573

    Yeah, I got it at TAD marine. Transatlantic diesel.  They were not cheap but I figured it was better than trying to fabricate one. I think about $250. BTW it is 90 degrees. You maybe refering to the  exhaust elbow at the end of the manifold which I took into a machine shop in Panama and they made a new one for me for about $300 US.    While you are at TAD I also did the Engine Panel upgrade (well worth it) as my mechanical tach on the Perkins failed and I did the Serpentine belt upgrade for the Alternator. Was tired of always having to tighten the V belt and replace event with Gates belts. We have a 100 amp AmpTech Hot rated alternator on the engine.  Good luck. It's all run! :)

    And to finish this thread on the coolant tank I was able to cut the bolt off and remove the tank. I tried to press the stud out and fortunately took it to a machine shop instead and asked them to press it out. The said "NO WAY"!  They would drill it out. If they tried to press it out they could well punch a hole in the tank. I was lucky. Don't have any idea that a broken tank would have cost to fix here in the middle of the Pacific.

    Last modified: April 14, 2015 9:04 AM | Anonymous member
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