Paul:

It is not a fun project! and I also wish they slapped the evil design person. But that is in the past.

Some tips that help (see other Forum topics)

Drilling out the head and drive them in, to find the spot (if you tape over the ss " for contamination reduction"  then a grinder could be faster for knocking off the bolt heads on the outside)

A gear wrench can help in the confined areas (top nuts)

The ones beside (Hopefully not under the bulkhead) may require the cutting of the fiberglass tape that covers them,  to allow their removal  (one of the osilating tools like Fein multimaster make this a bit less effort)

It is easiest to cut the rub rail and re attach it (Fein tool cutting at a 45deg so that the pc may be re screwed into the sides it was cut from) 

_______________\___________________________________

 \                           \/

   \                        /   \

-----\--------------------/---------------------------------------rub rail / hull side

Reassembling the top nuts can be helped, by adding elec tape (Or heavy grease) to the outside of nut: so it is a very snug fit in the gear wrench.

Best of luck:

Norm

P.s. be cautious not to bust up the ceiling boards  they are a pain to remake and match for color and fit. You may want to remove (unscrew) some where you think the nuts are.

@ Norm, thanks for the tips some good ideas there

@ Jay, the link resolves to a 403 (if you are a full member then the link works)

I spent about 1 1/2 hours in the hanging locker yesterday trying to dig out enough insulation to get at the top-most nuts. After excreting out about a gallon of sweat, I gave up and measured / drilled 1" holes through the bulwark. Easy nut removal that way. I don't mind doing fiberglass repair if it means that I don't have to spend another 3 or 4 hours kinked up and twisted into a nut removing pretzel.

I still have to deal with the pine tongue & groove.  I can't just unscrew / remove it because it's fit behind the wet-locker / chart table.

I have a fein which I used to remove the glass from around the bulkhead nuts. I still need to trim a bit more before I can get a socket on the nuts, but that little tool is a gem!

BTW If you guys want to see my progress I have a blog / youtube channel:

https://wakeforme.wordpress.com/

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCjT--u7Emgjf_731ek-nUGw

Cheers!

Paul: nice video's... and the drilling through the deck idea with your interior really makes sense to me - I thought about it for pygmalion but was not sure how to hide the holes later.

There are 3 - 5"  diameter deck plates - maybe just make the access easier for next time?? 

Wish there was 1-2" diameter ones...

Jay

Just one thought to keep in mind

For every hole there is the possible leak.

Just saying.

I plan on insulating the bulwark, but the insulation that is a problem is in the hull, there is about 5/8" foam on the entire hull, then that is glassed over, this take off about 3/4" of space going up into the bulwark. It is almost impossible to get a wrench on the top nut, let alone turn it, let alone make sure it is properly tightened up.  I sure do appreciate all the info and ideas I get from this site, thanks everyone. Nick