Mast beam crushing

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  • August 17, 2019 5:15 AM
    Reply # 7833331 on 7821436

    I don't mean to hijack Byrons thread but the reason I ask is I have some crushing myself. The bottom 'layer' of my deck beam has 'delaminated' on the longer port side leaving a 1/4" gap midway along the beam. Plus I've noticed the door to the head/v-berth has become misaligned making the door bolt hard to engage

    My main beam isn't on a straight plane. Mine is curved to match the curve of the cabin.

    I have the bronze bolts from Bud. Since the gap hasn't worsened over the years I've just never got around to installing them. Maybe I should tackle this job before it gets worse.

    In my case the problem is likely the support post under the cabin sole. For some reason the water tank 'bilge' stays wet (any ideas why?) so I could very well have dry rot there. I just am not looking forward at all to having to remove the water tanks to get to it. Gah... what a PITA

    p.s. what is the purpose of the wedge next to the support post (under the mast wiring cover)?

    Last modified: August 17, 2019 5:17 AM | Anonymous member
  • August 17, 2019 9:50 PM
    Reply # 7834151 on 7821436

    Jay,


    it it will be several weeks until I get to this. Maybe a few months.  But I will post photos of what I do.  I am talking with Dave King soon so I hope to get good insight from someone who has gone through this.


    Here is a good question though, why the beam? Couldn’t one just us a post all the way up and hang the port and starboard beams off the large post?


    thanks,

    bryon

  • August 24, 2019 12:09 PM
    Reply # 7847463 on 7833331
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Mike McCoy wrote:

    I don't mean to hijack Byrons thread but the reason I ask is I have some crushing myself. The bottom 'layer' of my deck beam has 'delaminated' on the longer port side leaving a 1/4" gap midway along the beam. Plus I've noticed the door to the head/v-berth has become misaligned making the door bolt hard to engage

    My main beam isn't on a straight plane. Mine is curved to match the curve of the cabin.

    I have the bronze bolts from Bud. Since the gap hasn't worsened over the years I've just never got around to installing them. Maybe I should tackle this job before it gets worse.

    In my case the problem is likely the support post under the cabin sole. For some reason the water tank 'bilge' stays wet (any ideas why?) so I could very well have dry rot there. I just am not looking forward at all to having to remove the water tanks to get to it. Gah... what a PITA

    p.s. what is the purpose of the wedge next to the support post (under the mast wiring cover)?


    Mike:  the beams are normally arched side to side -- if you sight from the cabin near the hatch -  forward - the bottom of cross beams should be on the same plain horizontally.  

    The door misalignment is a sign of something moving -- assuming that at one time / place the door worked as expected. :) 

    Checking the support block under the cabin sole is a good idea.. the water in the cabin bilge on Pygmalion dried up when the leaks from under the cap rails and other places was solved. 

    HTH

    Jay 


  • October 02, 2019 9:00 AM
    Reply # 7914493 on 7821436

    Update.


    Dave King has been generous enough to drive up and work with me on the crushed beam.  This turned out to be a great thing since he has done this a few times.  Having his experience really helped to speed up the process to this point.I removed the mast Sunday and yesterday Dave met me to take apart the beam and compression post. It took about 4 hours from both of us to get it all apart.

    Mine was an owner finished boat so some of the challenges was the none uniform way in which this part of the bot was put together.  Dave's biggest fear was that the beams might have been stuck to the bulkhead with adhesive or resin.  Fortunately that was not the case and everything actually disassembled rather smoothly.

    The beams were screwed to the bulkhead and screwed together (the forward beam screwed to the aft beam).  They were also screw to the cabin top (screws did not penetrate through the top layer of fiberglass on the cabin top).  And lastly there were two sets of screw both starboard and portside running down from the cabin top into the top of the beams.  These screws were sunk into the deck and covered with bonds and gelcoat.  Dave's experience helped there in knowing what to look for.  You search for small roundish shaped craze marks that are in line with the mast step and beam.  Again, the particular construction of this bot might not reflect the majority of bots out there.

    Has an aside, it turned out that the crushing above the brass plate was actually two small shims that were placed due to either replacing previously crushed wood or what was cut out of the area while trying to repair the crushing.  Either way the wood was not a solid chunk over the compression post.  No rot nor water penetration was detected anywhere neither on the post nor the bulkhead (great news)!


    Dave is fabricating the new beams and beam (we decided to upsize everything). That might affect the door to the head, but I'm certain that there is a fix for that.


    ill update when there is more.


    bryon

  • October 03, 2019 8:26 AM
    Reply # 7916256 on 7821436

    Is it necessary to step the mast or just completely loosen all the shrouds/stays?

  • October 03, 2019 8:23 PM
    Reply # 7917195 on 7821436

    Mike,

    perhaps others can argue their points for and against stepping the mast for this.  I have been told that it must be done, and I have been told that you can just loosen the rig.  

    I would say however that unless you are 100% certain that there is no water intrusion where the cables come in from the mast, taking it down so that you can inspect there area would be a good idea.  

    Honestly, it doesn’t cost that much to rent the boom truck and take it off and then replace it. The daily rate that the yard charges will get you if you don’t move quickly through the project.



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