Bedding for a hot stove pipe, primer & paint

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  • November 27, 2018 7:16 PM
    Message # 6935721

    Hello all,


    I had a big day today.  I cut a 7 inch hole in my boat. I am installing a Dickinson pacific stove.  I almost have the hole prepped.  I dug out an inch of wood in between the outside and inside of the layup and back filled with thickened 105.  I’m going to prime it and paint the area this weekend (which likely means that it will take another two weeks at my slow pace).  


    I am am wanting to paint the cabin top and apply nonskid in the not so distant future.  So I need to choose a primer now I think in order to cote the epoxy (at least I think that covering the epoxy is a needed step although it should never see the sun being that it will be covered by a Dickinson stove pipe dressing ring).  


    Can an someone suggest a good primer/paint to use and also what is a good bedding compound for the stove pipe dressing ring?  For the bedding compound I need something that I can remove without too much difficulty.  I don’t believe that temperature will be an issue since it the dressing ring has that air gap.


    thanks all,

    bryon

  • November 28, 2018 9:29 PM
    Reply # 6937526 on 6935721
    Hello Bryon,  I would use Interlux Epoxy Prime Kote 404/414 with the required reducer 2333N, as the primer for that application.  You will probably need 3 coats.  Literally any choice of top coat can go on top of that - or - nothing at all.  Be sure you wash the epoxied area with water before using the primer.        If I was certain that the heat would not be a problem then I would use Boatlife’s polysulfide or Dolphinite as a bedding.  Both will seal yet both can be removed someday down the road.  Be sure to bevel the tops of the holes that go into the cabin very slightly so that they will hold a little extra caulking.  Also avoid tightening the fasteners too tight initially as that may squeeze out all the caulk.  It’s best to leave the fasteners a bit loose until the caulk sets up a bit - about a day, before fully tightening.     Good luck,     Dave
  • December 13, 2018 5:52 PM
    Reply # 6959227 on 6935721

    Thanks Dave.  I appreciate your input.

  • December 26, 2019 12:56 PM
    Reply # 8397079 on 6935721

    Bryon:

    I bought a WS32 project boat in September.

    Tony Bennett suggested I contact you about my plan to install a Dickinson Bering Diesel cook stove this Spring. I just read your post on this topic that you made when you were priming and sealing the deck penetration for your Pacific stove's chimney.

    Will you please let me know if you have other comments and / or photos to help me get it done right?

    The Bering stove uses a 5" Dickinson single wall chimney, and deck fitting. I already bought 24" lengths of the rigid pipe, but later heard from Tony he favors moving the deck penetration forward to vent the chimney ahead and above the dodger, which sounds like a good plan. 

    So I'm thinking I'll get a piece of the flexible chimney to achieve the corrct placement, and wonder if you think that would be better than using the rigid elbows? 

    Fair winds,

    Dave Matt 


  • December 26, 2019 1:11 PM
    Reply # 8397165 on 6935721

    Make that Tony Bentley, not Bennet please.

    Sorry Tony.

    Dave Matt 

  • December 26, 2019 7:18 PM
    Reply # 8399339 on 6935721

    Dave Matt,


    Tony was very helpful for giving advice on installing the pacific stove.  As far as stove pipe placement it took me a while to come to a decision on where to vent it.  To me it seems like three possible options. Move it forward, run it straight, or move it aft.  

    At was no good because of he future placement of a dodger.

    Straight up was tough because again it was in the way of a dodger and it would not allow for my port light on open.

    moving it forward for me was not what I initially wanted to do because of the cabinet that I have over the icebox.  However that was the best option in the end, so I wound up building the cabinet with a cutout for the chimney.  

    The deckplate that Dickinson sells actually seals very nicely.  It comes with a rubber (or neoprene or something else that I don’t recall now) gasket.  That is all I have used to seal the deck plate down and it has not leaked in over a year in the Pacific Northwest.  I did however want it raised up. So I made a riser with two layers of 3/4 inch marine plywood and epoxied it down and then glassed over it.  Prior to glassing it in I located the screw holes and over sized them then filled them with thickened epoxy.  Like Dave King recommended, I use epoxy primecoat on it.  I plan on painting it this spring.


    what these photos don’t show is the completed stove pipe with elbow and dampener.  Also, I had stainless steel plates cut for heat shields in that line the cut out section of the cabinet.  I will post that photo next time I make it to the boat.


    actually it’s not letting me upload photos right now so those will come in the next reply


    Bryon 


  • December 26, 2019 7:30 PM
    Reply # 8399402 on 6935721

    Dave,


    im not familiar with flexible pipe for this.  I used the articulating elbow that Dickinson supplies (I used two) You just need to lay it out the best you can before cutting your hole.


    for whatever reason I am not able to upload the photos right now. I will try again tomorrow 


    bryon 



    Last modified: December 26, 2019 8:20 PM | Anonymous member
  • December 27, 2019 11:43 AM
    Reply # 8402538 on 6935721

    Thanks for your comments Byron. Cutting that big a hole in my coach roof merits plenty of forethought. I want to get it right, and Tony and you have led the way, so I'm appreciative.

    Another aspect of the stove instalation that has me puzzled is how best to anchor such a heavy mass to the hull and floors withot through bolting the hull, which of course isn't a good option. I'm guessing it'll come down to epoxied on wood furring blocks stuck to the hull with the stove screwed into the wood?

    I also have uncertainties about the diesel day tank: how best to keep it filled (i.e., low pressure pump drawing from the main diesel tank?). I'd like to find a compact, manual pump to avoid reliance on my 12V system.  I'm also uncertain how to avoid overfilling the day tank? And I woder if the 2.5 gal. tank Dickinson offers is the best choice?

    Fair winds and following seas,

    Dave Matt



  • December 27, 2019 2:51 PM
    Reply # 8403096 on 6935721

    Dave,


    for some aggravating reason I am still unable to post photos.  I tried emailing you some photos.  I used the email listed in your membership profile.  I hope that you get that.  


    I bought the dickinson day tank.  It’s not at all a good design.  It takes up way too much space.  Go to Sure marine in Ballard WA (they have a website) and get their flat 2 gallon day tank.  Then take it to a fabricator and have them drill a hole in the lower portion and  and weld on a screw port.  I bought a cool stainless sight tube that screws into that from a brewery supply store.  Again, a photo would be worth a 1000 words right about now.  My low pressure fuel pump runs off a rocker switch next to the galley.  I turn it on and watch the tank fill then turn it off.  Do that about every other day at constant use.  


    The tank is is mounted in the galley on the side wall aft of the port light.  It’s out of the way there and gives enough head height to fill the burner. 

    I braced the plateform that hold the stove by through bolting supports on the aft cabinet and wood screws on the forward cabinet (that’s the cabinet that holds the icebox in my boat). That’s plenty strong.

    p.s. I’m down in Everett if you ever want to come down to check out how I have it installed.


    Bryon

    Last modified: December 27, 2019 2:57 PM | Anonymous member
  • January 15, 2020 7:22 PM
    Reply # 8586702 on 6935721

    Dave,


    looks like Ike I can post photos again so here they are.....

    bryon

    9 files
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