Bob Stay Hull Fitting

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  • August 29, 2016 11:17 AM
    Reply # 4217216 on 4138731

    I got a chance to work on the boat this weekend. I found a crack on the fitting so I will have to replace it with a new one. Here is a picture of it.

    Photo

    Last modified: August 31, 2016 7:55 PM | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • September 02, 2016 4:06 AM
    Reply # 4223870 on 4138731
    Anonymous

    nice picture.  confirms our suspicions. good luck with the replacement task.

    i suggest you carefully inspect other structural stainless steel around the boat,  especially the chain plates.  i would be suspicious of any that are weeping rust stains.  the standard ones had square holes.  some of mine cracked outward from the corners of the holes, others looked okay.  i replaced them all.  they were mostly difficult to get at from inside, requiring removal of woodwork etc.

    boating is fun!

    james

  • September 08, 2016 4:52 AM
    Reply # 4234081 on 4138731
    Deleted user

    On Infini, we ended up replacing the old bobstay fitting but kept it in place, mounted the new one further up, and had it fabricated in two SS flanges, allowing us to thru-bolt each side separately. The bobstay itself attaches with a clevis pin. The old one can be used to attach an anchor snubber, or as an underwater ice-breaker :) 

  • September 11, 2016 11:29 AM
    Reply # 4244665 on 4138731

    Hi all,

    We just broke off the top of the bobstay fitting (half the the upper hole) having an argument with the dock during Hurricane Newton here in Mexico. Haven't got the chain out yet to see inside, but from the outside remarkably the fitting still looks OK - no cracks. Still need to get the magnifier out and will do that. maybe pull the fitting.

    Questions:

    1. The lower hole is still intact and there is enough length in the bobstay toggle I can bolt to that and get s good angle still. Anyone else used that as a fix?

    2. If we need to replace, does anyone have diagram/specs of the fitting?

    3. Has anyone documented a refit? I couldn;t find one yet but internet here is very slow so I can't serach so easily.

    Thanks

    Jane, SV Chantey, W42

  • September 12, 2016 3:30 AM
    Reply # 4245425 on 4138731
    Anonymous

    my boat is a w28 and luis has a w32, so our fittings may be a little less robust than for a w42.

    the lower hole should be okay. but my lower hole is a little closer to the hull so the toggle might hit the fiberglass.  i think the lower hole is meant to be used as an anchor snubber shackle point.

    there is a detail drawing in the w28 construction manual,  suggest you check the w42 manual.

    i sent an email direct to luis with a detailed description of what i did to replace mine. email me if you would like a copy. (too long for here)

    "latitude 38" has published several after-newton pictures.  looks like you fared pretty well if that's all that broke.


    james

  • January 25, 2017 8:12 PM
    Reply # 4569069 on 4138731
    Anonymous

    The bobstay fitting on our boat was pretty corroded.  I would guess it was underwater for years without a zinc.  It was a pain to chisel out, I vowed never to do it again, so I had one made out of titanium, and I'm in the process of installing it.  The boat is still in the water, and by moving all the heavy stuff to the stern, the hull opening rose safely above the waterline.

  • January 25, 2017 9:04 PM
    Reply # 4569096 on 4138731

    Hello Luis, Bill, Darlene, and others,


    The proper name of the bobstay fitting is the "Cutwater" fitting.  Good luck with your projects.   I suggest that you all keep the fitting above the waterline and that you do not anchor off of this fitting.

    Dave

    Last modified: January 25, 2017 9:08 PM | Anonymous member
  • January 27, 2017 10:51 AM
    Reply # 4572017 on 4138731

    Ahoy,  Yes, I know nobody asked me, but this forum needs a little shot, so Here's a little "Cutwater" fitting story and a little info.

    Once upon a time. I was delivering a boat back from Okinawa, bound for Astoria, Oregon.  On about day 8 the automatic bilge pump quit working.  Didn't notice this. Soon the floor boards were awash.  Pumped rapidly for quite awhile.  Discovered the cutwater fitting hole was leaking badly but we could not do anything about it from inside the boat.  My crew and I pumped 200 to 300 gallons a day (not a misprint) for the remainder of the 39 day crossing.

    The boat owners did not know they had a problem.  The cutwater fitting was out of the water when the boat was stationary, and the automatic bilge pumps took over when the boat was moving.  The boat had been a full time cruiser for about 3 years, and they had always anchored off of this fitting.  That means it had been subjected to about 1 million side load cycles.  Each cycle just very slightly opening up the slot and breaking down the fiberglass backing.

    I, personally, do not use a zinc on the cutwater fitting.  I keep the fitting out of the water.  Also, I use a forked end on the bobstay for this fitting.  It is more streamlined with less parts.  From a performance point of view, this is just one piece of a 1000 piece puzzle.

    Note:  This is only one of my "Cutwater" fitting stories.

    Thanks,  Dave

    Last modified: January 27, 2017 10:55 AM | Anonymous member
  • May 10, 2017 8:25 AM
    Reply # 4824392 on 4138731
    Deleted user

    I just ordered a new cutwater fitting from Bud.  Tyee had the older exterior style and it sat half in the water most of the time.  It looked good from the water but now that she is in the yard and I could pull the bolts there was corrosion beneath most of the bolt heads so it was time.  

    I ordered the newer one that goes inside the chain locker and gets glassed in.  Looks like I'm cutting another hole in her in the near future.  There is part of me that is terrified by this.  

    Anyone have any advice or whatever you do don't do THIS for mounting the new fitting?  I was going to locate it about six inches higher, cut the hole as small as possible and fill with west systems epoxy with glass beads at a peanut butter consistency.  Then use two layers of fabric to cover her on the inside.  I'll touch up around her with gel coat to 1/16 inch of the fitting and caulk around the fitting.  At this point I feel like I have enough experience to be dangerous so if this sounds bad or there is a better way let me know.

    Chris 

  • May 11, 2017 5:30 AM
    Reply # 4826718 on 4138731
    Anonymous

    if you raise the cutwater fitting 6", then you will almost certainly need a shorter bobstay wire.

    i think would prefer west system high density 404 or 406 filler rather than glass beads.

    i would wet out the s/s with neat epoxy first,  then wet sand to expose some bare metal. and then add the filler to the rest of the resin.  you might need to shove some epoxy mixture in from the outside to completely fill the void around the external part.  in use, the fitting is going to be loaded such that it will press up against the top of the slot, so be sure when you bed it in, that you shove it upward as far as you can. i put the bobstay wire back on and tightened it up a little to hold it there.

    two layers of cloth sounds a little inadequate.  the construction manual shows bonding over the inside with one mat plus cloth and then two mat plus roving (a total of six layers) extending 10 inches on all sides.

    be sure to caulk the outside well. any water that gets past the caulk will most likely lead to eventual crevice corrosion of the s/s.

    consider yourself fortunate in that you don't have to chisel out the old one from inside the chain locker.


    james

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