Cracks in fiberglass below caprails...

<< First  < Prev   1   2   3   Next >  Last >> 
  • June 03, 2012 10:28 AM
    Message # 941707
    I have a 1973 westsail 32 which I bought relatively recently.  The boat is in great need of TLC.  The previous owner said he always had leaking at the caprails, and this must be part of the reason.  There are pretty significant cracks running under the caprails at the gunwales (bulwarks?) on the outboard side.  Is this a common problem?   Pictured here are the caprail, chain plate and crack.  What would be the best way to deal with this?  On one side the crack is almost half the length for the boat, on the other side it is shorter.  Does it need to be glassed over? and would it need to be opened up more first? or could it just be filled with something like poly-sulfide....
    Advice would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Andrea
     
     

     

    Last modified: June 04, 2012 3:41 PM | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • June 03, 2012 11:50 AM
    Reply # 941729 on 941707

    Andrea,

    Is there an actual crack through the fiberglass bulwark or just a gap between caprail and bulwark. My pilot berth was continually collecting water which worked its way under the starboard caprail. The rain had to persist for awhile in order to soak the topsides and then work its way into the gap by capillary action. I managed to stop the leak completely by applying 3M marine sealant 4000.

    scott

  • June 04, 2012 3:44 PM
    Reply # 944510 on 941707
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Andrea:  Does this crack exist all along the bulwarks / caprail - almost looks like a repair that came loose after an impact or possible a repair during manufacturing? 

    Jay

  • June 04, 2012 7:59 PM
    Reply # 945455 on 941707

    Don't know why I couldn't see the picture yesterday but that sure is a crack. I'll have to defer to Bud on a repair of that magnitude.

    scott

  • June 04, 2012 8:59 PM
    Reply # 945741 on 941707

    Ahoy Andrea,

    On the early W-32's the hull top ended about at that height in many areas.  The height varied.  The deck mould sits on a shear clamp just above the hull edge.  The gap that was left between the deck mould and the hull mould, under the cap rail, was originally filled with a polyester "Bondo".  Cracking of this bondo was/is inevitable and needs to be refilled.  This is not a big job.  I can not say positively that that is what the crack is but I am 90%+ sure.

    To make the best repair it is recommended to dig out and clean as much of the gap as possible.  The recommended new fill would be determined by the person doing the job.  Over the years it has been refilled with polyester, epoxy, polysulfide, polyurethane, and probably a dozen other substances.  Let some other people make some suggestions to you.  (Are you listening Norm?)

    I will be in the bay area the last week of June and could take a look at it if that is of any assistance.

    Good luck and keep us informed.      Dave

  • June 05, 2012 5:06 PM
    Reply # 947476 on 941707

    Andrea,

    I have a page in my Westsail Service Manual, Page D-2, that may explain the crack you are looking at.  I will email the page to you.

  • June 12, 2012 7:30 PM
    Reply # 964299 on 941707
    Deleted user
    Andrea, for a minute there I thought you took a photo of our 1972, 32'. Westsail Co. learned things from our earlier boats.  Dave pretty much explains it.  I recaulked Glorious several times. Finally decided to use 5200.  You know the rule.  If you ever want it to come apart.... Well, I decided I didn't want the deck to come off the hull.  Another rule; Never use alcohol on 5200.  It will come apart. Another rule; always know what chemicals are in the paint.  So we scraped all the gooy 5200 out and did it again 2 years ago.  So far, so good but the jury is still out.  The first 5200 job kept us dry inside down to Mexico and over to Hawaii.  The return voyage to Washington was just the opposite. I think you are on the right track.  Get much and various info. and good luck.
    Gerald
  • August 27, 2012 8:35 AM
    Reply # 1057709 on 941707
    Deleted user
    Amongst many of my other rebuild efforts I must (as do all W owners eventually) recaulk the caprail.


    Does any one have a pic of the caprail removed?  I'd like to look at what I am contending with.

    Some ideas I've mulled over:

    Recaulk both sides with polysulfide then drill 3/8" holes in the center and pour Penetrating epoxy.  Why?  I am looking for as permanent a solution I can achieve.  It is too hard to remove the entire caprail and caulking from the exterior doesn't really fill all the gaps.  If I caulk outside first then fill with epoxy from the top through a hole I figure the epoxy will settle and fill all the gaps I couldn't get to.

    Whaddya think?
  • August 27, 2012 5:58 PM
    Reply # 1058062 on 941707
    Deleted user
    After more digging I found in the members area:

    Caprail leak repair - Jay Bietz

    Great pics and narrative in there.

     I also found another  solid method to kill the leaky capril issue.  (http://www.geocities.com/fluidmotion2/home_frame.html)  Look under projects in New Zealand.


    All I can say is WOW to all parties who have done caprail work!!!
    Last modified: August 27, 2012 5:58 PM | Deleted user
  • August 28, 2012 6:42 AM
    Reply # 1058485 on 941707
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
     Steve Steve VanTuyl - his solution was to rebuld the caprail out of fiberglass - 
    Last modified: August 29, 2012 7:02 PM | Anonymous member (Administrator)
<< First  < Prev   1   2   3   Next >  Last >> 
Powered by Wild Apricot Membership Software