Forgot password

Cracks in fiberglass below caprails...

  • August 28, 2012 7:30 AM
    Quote
    Reply # 1058542 on 941707
    Anonymous member
    Don't give me too much credit for it Jay...  Remember, I had to talk Dave King into doing the project for me!
    When it was all said and done though, it was the best thing we could have done.
    Now I'm getting ready to drill it for genoa tracks. That's hard too do after it's all sealed and smooth! 

    It is interesting how many people ask what it the tan material on top? It's just paint, that is the top of the hull/deck. The non-skid and riser blocks for the boom gallows set it off quite well I think.

    I regret not taking any pictures during the project but will set down with Dave one of these days and write up the procedure for anyone that is interested.

    Steve
  • August 29, 2012 11:50 AM
    Quote
    Reply # 1059767 on 941707
    Deleted user
    Steve it looks great!

    Sorry I did not answer when Dave gave a hint, but I haven't been reading the web as often as I should.  If you had help from Dave King I am sure it is Great, and am only Jealous mine is not done that way.

    Thanks for the pictures, and I hope you can write an article for windblown.
    Norm
    Last modified: August 29, 2012 11:51 AM | Deleted user
  • August 30, 2012 3:10 AM
    Quote
    Reply # 1060350 on 1057709
    Anonymous member
    Edward Herold wrote:Amongst many of my other rebuild efforts I must (as do all W owners eventually) recaulk the caprail.


    Does any one have a pic of the caprail removed?  I'd like to look at what I am contending with.

    Some ideas I've mulled over:

    Recaulk both sides with polysulfide then drill 3/8" holes in the center and pour Penetrating epoxy.  Why?  I am looking for as permanent a solution I can achieve.  It is too hard to remove the entire caprail and caulking from the exterior doesn't really fill all the gaps.  If I caulk outside first then fill with epoxy from the top through a hole I figure the epoxy will settle and fill all the gaps I couldn't get to.

    Whaddya think?


    Personally I would not try to fill any leaks using 'penetrating epoxy' via holes drilled in the caprail. There is no guarantee the epoxy would find any/all leaks and thus I think that would just make the problem worse by 'gluing' the caprail to the hull/deck joint.
  • August 30, 2012 6:13 AM
    Quote
    Reply # 1060464 on 941707
    Anonymous member

    Can someone tell me if the caprail screws are also integrated into securing the hull-to-deck joint?  If so, then one would think that removing the entire caprail could end up with mis-alignment of the joint holes if the hull was to "relax."  If not, then there would be separate hardware for the hull-to-deck joint, and then additional screws for the caprail.  Please advise.

    T.
  • August 30, 2012 7:27 PM
    Quote
    Reply # 1061216 on 941707
    Deleted user
    I think you're correct in not injecting epoxy.  My teak cap rail is faulty and needs repair or replacement.  I like the idea of a finished fiberglass caprail bonding the hull together.

    A couple of points and questions:

    The deck and hull are attached via separated stainless bolts?

    Since I will be glassing over these perhaps I should take each one out one at a time and replace with bronze?

    Then glass over and buildup the caprail.  Maybe add bronze sheet stock embedded into the glass where equipment such as the Genoa t-track and stanchions bolt?

    Are the caprails on solstice flush with inboard and outboard surfaces? 

    Regards
  • August 30, 2012 8:07 PM
    Quote
    Reply # 1061248 on 941707
    Anonymous member

    Page D-2 of my Westsail Service Manual describes the two different methods used by Westsail to install the deck on the hull.  Anyone not having that page, which was updated in June of 2006, can email me and I will send a copy of that page.

    The deck flange was either screwed or bolted to the hull flange, depending on when the use of bolts was started, which was after I left Westsail.  The caprails were always attached with self-tapping screws.

    Sealing the exterior seams, and also recaulking the hawse pipes and stanchions should be the first procedure made to stop the leaks. It is the easiest, and quite often works. 

    If this does not do it, then the caprail should be carefully removed, and the top of the deck to hull flange sealed with polysulphide or polyurethane caulking.  It should be then water tested to make sure there are no leaks.  The caprail can then be reinstalled, taking care to seal around each of the screws used to attach the caprail.
  • September 01, 2012 3:04 PM
    Quote
    Reply # 1062482 on 941707
    Deleted user
    Just to let you know my caprail screws are threaded into a aluminum strip embedded into the hull flange, if yours has this aluminum it is unlikely that you could get the screws out stainless machine screws into aluminum will seize solid this was intended to be permanent
  • September 02, 2012 5:00 PM
    Quote
    Reply # 1062972 on 941707
    Deleted user
    Bud and Claus,

    Good to know.  For now I caulked the outside and inside.  At some point it will need to come off and be rebuilt and/or replaced.  I suppose each vessel was a little different.  If there is an aluminum strip in situ that is good because I can drill the SS heads out, remove the caprail and then when reattaching just move an 1-2" offset.

    Very helpful info all.   Thx.
  • October 15, 2012 3:44 PM
    Quote
    Reply # 1104433 on 941707
    Anonymous member
    Hi it's Andrea again, the one who started this thread.
    thanks to all who responded.  I like the idea of the 5200, I can do that.  I had already looked at the profiles of the caprail in the manual, and to me it did not look obvious that this would be a weak spot.  I drew a diagram below and two possible crack routes.  Now, if option A is the crack path then 5200 or some filler seems a reasonable solution. My fear was that the crack went in the path pictured in option B in which case the deck/hull assembly seems jeopardized.  
    So I guess my question is can I safely assume that the crack is superficial as shown in A?  (It is in fact the thiner part of the fiberglass.) 

    thanks again!
    Andrea
  • October 15, 2012 4:23 PM
    Quote
    Reply # 1104454 on 1104433
    Anonymous
    Andrea Dose wrote:Hi it's Andrea again, the one who started this thread.
    thanks to all who responded.  I like the idea of the 5200, I can do that.  I had already looked at the profiles of the caprail in the manual, and to me it did not look obvious that this would be a weak spot.  I drew a diagram below and two possible crack routes.  Now, if option A is the crack path then 5200 or some filler seems a reasonable solution. My fear was that the crack went in the path pictured in option B in which case the deck/hull assembly seems jeopardized.  
    So I guess my question is can I safely assume that the crack is superficial as shown in A?  (It is in fact the thiner part of the fiberglass.) 

    thanks again!
    Andrea
    Andrea, if you have a hull with a lower number than 120 then your hull/deck joint does not look like your picture. The older hulls had a wooden sheer clamp instead of the fiberglass shelf. Can you see any screws in the area of the cracks? 
Powered by Wild Apricot Membership Software