Tabernacle pin

<< First  < Prev   1   2   Next >  Last >> 
  • August 03, 2015 4:24 PM
    Message # 3463392
    Anonymous

    Guys,

    I've dropped the mast in preparation for new rigging.  However, now that the mast is horizontal I've tried to remove the pin but she's stuck fast. I tried a 5lb sledge and bronze drift punch but that sucker is NOT moving.  I'm thinking that I'll have to rig some kind of hydralic press insitu.  OR I'll have to sawzall the pin and then press the remenant out after removing the mast from the boat.

    I'm hoping there's a better solution.  Is there?

  • August 03, 2015 9:41 PM
    Reply # 3463558 on 3463392

    If you've got the time you can try spraying the pin with penetrol and letting it soak in, but that may take days to work if at all. 

    I ran into the same issue a couple years ago and chose the sawsall approach.  After cutting the pin I was able to pull the mast and get the cut pieces out with a punch, penetrol and heat. If your pin is totally seized within the mast compression tube you may have to cut the compression tube and fit a new one. Some feel a compression tube is not really needed at the hinge, but that's your call.  I replaced my cut pin with a new stainless bolt that I slathered neverseize before reinstalling.  

    Kevin 

  • August 04, 2015 10:01 AM
    Reply # 3464424 on 3463392
    Deleted user

    Paul:

    Some thoughts.

    1.) if you can, drilled, then flat bottom tap into the al tube but not the ss for a grease zerk  and grease it, a few times again and again (may or may not allow the al oxide out (you may or may not need additional holes for the grease and al oxide to flow in or out??) and it may not work? I would give it a 50/50 chance.

    2.) a hammer (Hammer Drill for concrete) may or may not rotate and drive it out?  I would give it a 10% chance of success.

    3.)  If you drill and tap the pin you may be able to use a slide hammer to pull it out, Note: any beating to push it through can flair the ss out and if you do flair it, it will not ever come out. I would give it something like 20% chance of success.

    4.) This will work on removing the mast from the boat at the yard. Undo the hold down screws and lift the mast and base together (Make sure you get all of the screws)

    After #4 I had to cut my base off, just to solid to remove (and I mushromed the pin Ugh!)

    after that I drilled out what was left and replaced it with a ss sleeve and new ss pin (it has been 12+ years with no issues)  one note: it is critical to get the sleeve in at exactly 90Deg, to the mast, try to keep it in alignment at less than 1/64" off (drill press and reamer) I also glassed the sleeve on the inside of the mast i.e. the sleeve goes all the way through but is held by corrosion from the mast to ss sleeve and the FG wrapping on the inner mast and ss sleeve (fixed very solid) . OH; I also had the base hard anodised and painted while it was off the boat.

    Best of luck

    Norm

    p.s If the crane is not to many $$ then cutting pin with a sawsall could be OK (like Mark & Kevin say), and would save un-mounting and remounting the base. But in any case if you keep the al tube, I would add a grease fitting to prevent this in the future.

    Last modified: August 05, 2015 8:38 AM | Deleted user
  • August 04, 2015 7:16 PM
    Reply # 3464975 on 3463392

    Hey Paul , we had the same exact problem when we went to the yard to have the mast pulled off with a crane  for painting . Pin was stuck , sawed it off with a saws all ( didn't even nick the mast ,( whew) then we heated up the compression tube with a oxy. acetel . torch , and I'm talkin' the rose bud tip !  Then with a drift pin and sledge hammer the thing finally came out . And we did like Kevin and got a bolt to replace the pin witch IMO was almost a press fit , the bolt is a slightly smaller dia. than the stock pin and with a little anti size is not likely to stick . Only bummer about our project was we fried the mast head lights wiring . Good luck !  


    Last modified: August 04, 2015 7:18 PM | Anonymous member
  • August 07, 2015 1:09 PM
    Reply # 3470050 on 3463392
    Anonymous
    Guys, thanks for the tip. I ended up using a sawzall on the pin (5 carbide tip blades later) and have the mast off the boat, sitting on saw horses. I'll likely try the heat / punch method to get the pin out of the mast. Failing that, I'll use an angle grinder with a zip disk to remove both pin & tube. I'll then replace the tube with a SS tube and a matching SS pin.
  • August 07, 2015 10:23 PM
    Reply # 3470422 on 3463392
    Deleted user

    Paul:

    To save the tube, You could use a small drill press (bench type and lower the mast on to some blocks so that you can get a good alignment) and drill out the pin starting small and then going up to the pin size.  Just take your time.

    Norm

  • August 08, 2015 5:15 PM
    Reply # 3471254 on 3463392
    Anonymous

    If you have a hole through the length of the pin what would happen if you filled the hole with liquid nitrogen? If you get the pin that cold and put a little heat on the compression tub it might come out easily. Liquid nitrogen is easy to come by.


  • August 10, 2015 8:24 AM
    Reply # 3473152 on 3463392
    Anonymous
    If I had a hole through the pin, I would tap it and use a gear puller to extract the pin. Although, I like the idea of using chemistry to shatter the pin. But it might shatter the aluminum too. I think I'll stay away from NO2 I have a couple of metal-worker friends both suggest using a rose-bud tip on an oxy-acetylene torch to heat the aluminum pipe. The aluminum will heat and expand faster than the SS. This should allow me to drive the pin out. Failing that I'll use a 'zip disk' on an angle grinder and cut both pin & tube. I'll replace pin & tube with SS.
    Last modified: August 10, 2015 8:28 AM | Anonymous
  • August 11, 2015 2:46 PM
    Reply # 3475446 on 3463392
    Anonymous

    We built two masts, put them together the same way. A decade ago the first one was removed. That put the base of the mast on the yard's hydrolic press. Maxed it out, nothing happened. The idea of the liquid nitrogen is to cause the stainless steel pin to contract, it will not get cold enough to shatter it. With the pin really cold and the aluminum compression tube heated very hot it might change the dimensions enough to be able to press it out, or go to the default and use a swasall. I was looking at pipe and rod dimensions and found 1" rod is. 1" in diameter. 1" pipe is .095+/-". Either way, have fun,  that is why we do this stuff.


  • August 12, 2015 9:34 AM
    Reply # 3476354 on 3463392
    Anonymous

    Fun fun fun in the sun sun sun.... I haven't tried the heating method yet. I don't have access to NO2, so probably won't do that. I have a sneaking suspicion that I'll end up cutting it but I'll try other less destructive methods first.

<< First  < Prev   1   2   Next >  Last >> 
Powered by Wild Apricot Membership Software