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LED mast lights/nav lights

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  • March 18, 2011 11:40 AM
    Quote
    Reply # 548729 on 545957
    Anonymous member
    Hey all,

    For our size vessels, when under power, we must show a 360* visible white light, as well as side lights (red/green bow lights). That 360* can be made in multiple ways; all that matters is that from a distance other vessels can only distinguish a single white light from 360*.

    On a sailboat, this is generally accomplished with a single forward-facing 225*-arc "masthead" light (which is NOT mounted at the top of the mast, but generally mid-mast somewhere), and an aft-facing 135*-arc "stern" light.

    When sailing you may only display side lights and an aft-facing 135*-arc stern light.

    ~A
    Last modified: March 18, 2011 11:40 AM | Anonymous member
  • March 18, 2011 3:53 PM
    Quote
    Reply # 548862 on 545957
    Anonymous
    33 CFR 84: ANNEX I - INLAND POSITIONING & TECHNICAL DETAILS OF LIGHTS & SHAPES

  • March 19, 2011 6:03 AM
    Quote
    Reply # 549158 on 548580
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Stephen Yoder wrote:
    Dick Mills wrote:
    Robert McQueen wrote: Steaming lights are also called Mast Head lights.
    I had installed one of these on my last boat: 
      Perko model #1131DP0CHR
    Is that true?  

    I thought that the requirement was that steaming lights are visible only forward, whereas masthead lights are visible 360 degrees.   I already have an anchor light up there.


    My understanding is that the combination of the steaming light and stern light create a 360 degree circle.  So, if you use a separate stern light, your steaming light should only e visible in the sector that the stern light doesn't cover.  See:

    http://www.boatus.org/onlinecourse/reviewpages/boatusf/project/info2c.htm

    -Steve

    I'm not sure on Robert's model but this is what I used on the mast Perko Steaming light facing fwd -- I'm with Dick and Steve -- with the forward mast light and the stern light you are OK IMHO.  I will say that that I've had fits with the Perko above as the mast motion can pop the bayonet style bulb out of the clips and/or the moisture corrode because of the "not really weather proof" housing and poor materials on the contacts -- gold is needed.  Perko Corrosion  

    Jay

    Last modified: March 19, 2011 6:03 AM | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • March 19, 2011 11:52 PM
    Quote
    Reply # 549557 on 545957
    Anonymous
    Jay, 

      That model you linked to looks very similar to the one I installed on my old S2.  When I installed it I Soldered it into the new wire harness and used 4200 to bed the fixture to the mast sealing the rubber gasket as well.

      I'm not thrilled with the quality in most marine light fixtures.  I installed new fixtures in the forward cabin due to the previous wiring being nicked and badly corroded.  When I pulled the light fixture I decided it was time for a new one due to the contacts looking pretty bad.

     Before I install any electrical component I now remove the factory wiring if possible and solder the part to the boats existing wiring, which is all tinned Ancor thanks to rewiring 90% of the boat after finding some corroded wires.

     Another way to combat corrosion on electrical contacts is to apply a coating of dielectric grease after cleaning the contacts.
  • March 20, 2011 5:25 AM
    Quote
    Reply # 549604 on 547573
    Anonymous member
    Dick Mills wrote: I need a new steaming light.  However, they seem to have disappeared from all the catalogs that I have.  Puzzling, because as far as I know, they're still required.

    Anybody know where to find one?

    Hamilton Marine has the Hella NaviLED Pro Navigation (Bow), Stern and Masthead lamps.
  • March 20, 2011 7:11 AM
    Quote
    Reply # 549623 on 549557
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Robert McQueen wrote: Jay, 

      That model you linked to looks very similar to the one I installed on my old S2.  When I installed it I Soldered it into the new wire harness and used 4200 to bed the fixture to the mast sealing the rubber gasket as well.

      I'm not thrilled with the quality in most marine light fixtures.  I installed new fixtures in the forward cabin due to the previous wiring being nicked and badly corroded.  When I pulled the light fixture I decided it was time for a new one due to the contacts looking pretty bad.

     Before I install any electrical component I now remove the factory wiring if possible and solder the part to the boats existing wiring, which is all tinned Ancor thanks to rewiring 90% of the boat after finding some corroded wires.

     Another way to combat corrosion on electrical contacts is to apply a coating of dielectric grease after cleaning the contacts.

    Good ideas -- I've done the bedding thing but I'd rather the Manufactors made better products - seems pretty lame the way the Perko light is made and not cheap either -- to depend on sealing out the moisture 100% of the time is just not a long term solution.. We should not have to disassemble the device to hopefully get more the a year's life from an expensive marine product.... end of rant!!

    Jay

    Last modified: March 20, 2011 7:11 AM | Anonymous member (Administrator)
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