Shortened main foot, no bumkin, and two back stays

  • September 07, 2018 21:00
    Message # 6659730

     Hi everyone. I just joined. This is my first post. 

    I am lucky enough to own a 1976 W32. I am currently trying to get her ready for extended cruising/live aboard. Iv'e read quite a bit, all I could find, about the boomkin failures, and weather helm. 

     So, I'm hoping to get a "review" for lack of a better word, or maybe just some advice on how the smaller sail area effects performance in light wind...or downwind..or any other points to consider.. 

     The previous owner had a sayes rig on her. I bought a monitor, but I'm considering selling that if the shortened main would balance the sails well enough to use the sayes rig. I dont have any experience with either. Iv'e just read, and can see from looking at the two, that the monitor is a more powerful wind vane. 

     Any advice is welcome, Thanks, Paul


  • September 08, 2018 07:38
    Reply # 6660049 on 6659730

    Paul:

    Some comments;

    1.) make sure the boom is cut enough so when reefed (lifted) it does not hit the backstays. (also put a bungee on the topping lift line for same issue)

    2.) FYI the monitor is a great unit!! and worth keeping. see the mod

    3.) For light air; big fore sails are great! with or without the mod

    4.) I chopped 20" off the boom and my foot is now 14'-0" (this may be less if you have battens? you should check before any cutting/re-rigging)

    5.) Bud's lower chain plates work great for double back chain plates (just make a wedge to keep them outside the caprail) for install drill the top hole put the bolt in, and then snug the rigging (it will align the other 3 holes then just drill them "wedge and hull" through the holes in the chianplate = total alignement) oh the wedge is tapered from the overhang of caprail +1/4" to about 1/4" at bottom of chainplate  

    6.) the boomkin chain plates can be reused as eyes (dink, towing,etc).  Take the old ones to a weld shop and have them cutoff the extra and weld a 1/4" hoop on to them and reinstall, see picture.

    with my rig it balances with all up, 1st reef main and just jib, 2nd reef main and just the stay sail.  Overall I believe it sails faster with the shorter boom ( balanced better).

    Last modified: September 17, 2018 07:23 | Anonymous member
  • September 13, 2018 19:45
    Reply # 6668564 on 6659730

    remove the wood boomkin and add the stainless one Bud sells. The wind vain will fit with no problem.  You can reduce weather  helm by balancing the sails. for light wind just buy a  spinnaker. You can reduce the main sail by just reefing. No need for cutting and expensive mods. no matter what you do to it she just will not go to wind but in a close reach she takes off nicely.  also slow on a run but if you come off the wind some she will again move faster. more sail is not always the answer to making the boat go faster.

  • September 14, 2018 12:40
    Reply # 6669558 on 6659730

    Paul

    I reread your post, and realize, my post was only how to replace the boomkin.

    some thoughts:

    Sail your boat locally, for a month or two before deciding on what to fix (change)

    Just say you are cruising, starting now. But you have a house or apt to relax at (some do this in the middle of their trip). The fixing of the boat will be the same no mater where, but at the home port, the cost is much much less and is faster!

    FYI the boomkin will work if.

    a.) if the boomkin is not rotten and is in good shape (check ends and at the deck bolts)

    b.) if you have the heavy cross plate in the back (Bud sells this)

    c.) if you check all of the rigging (including the chain plates)

    d.) if your rigging (all) is in good shape (look at the turnbuckles)

    e.) running backstays are required in heavy weather (with or without the boomkin) they do reduce the load on the backstay(s) and to some extent the side stays

    so if you are in bad shape on all (a,b,c,d) then it maybe less $$ to shorten the boom and git rid of the boomkin all together, but if a,b,c,d are all good, then sail her for a bit, and if the weather helm is to much, or you are tired of sailing with one reef in most of the time, you can shorten the foot on the main (you do not need to change the boom or the boomkin to do this) or if you want, you can? it should be your choice, not just based on others written or verbal advice. I lost three front teeth because I listened to everyone (15+ people) and they all told me to do the same something, and it was wrong. ie the whole world can be wrong, this in not typical, but can happen.

    FYI on how my shorter foot main sail,  sails

    with a shorter foot

    1.) all up; is like taking 1/2 of the first reef = 85%  the uncut sail +/-

    2.) the first reef is like 1.25 x the original 1st reef = 25% deeper but still 40% more than orig 2nd

    3.) the second reef is like 1.1 the original 2nd reef = a 10% deeper reef.

    Lastly; you yourself, are the only one you should truly listen to, and a little experience will allow you, to give yourself much much better advice than anyone else can. 

    Hope the rambling helps, if not, oh well; it did not cost to much.

    P.S. Bud makes a split kit two from the hull to one up the mast = less weight aloft but just one backstay, I have two independent = great safety mostly, but did I say I hate the extra weight aloft! FYI

    Last modified: September 17, 2018 07:29 | Anonymous member
  • September 16, 2018 18:10
    Reply # 6671946 on 6659730

     Thanks Norm and Doug for your advice and insight. Money is a factor, but I want to do things right too. Right now the boomkins off, mast is not up yet, need new sails, no boomkin chainplates. I have the wood for the boomkin but the crosspiece is bent. I'm definitely leaning towards two back stays. I like the Idea, it seams simple and a little less to worry about. both ways have there pros and cons. My plan now is to do the two back stays, get the mast up. then see how much of the boom i need to chop off. Then try to find a good mainsail to fit. Since I need new sails, it pretty much comes down to which way will sail better, not that I'll be in any hurry. 

  • September 17, 2018 09:50
    Reply # 6673086 on 6659730

    Just to throw something else over your transom... consider keeping what you got, just use SS instead of wood.

    My local welding company would order something called "drops" for pennies on the price of "standard" lengths. I think "drops" means" pieces of SS that were not long enough to sell on the building market, but who knows....? I do remember, that availability was "when it became available!" 

    I would measure, cut with my angle grinder, and they would weld. 

    I also have pics of my bowsprit and Sampson posts. 

    On the other hand, if you are not a die-hard DIY-er, I strongly suggest Bud's products. 

    Ed & Karen s/v Caprica


     

  • September 28, 2018 08:23
    Reply # 6697150 on 6673086
    Anonymous wrote:

    Just to throw something else over your transom... consider keeping what you got, just use SS instead of wood.

    My local welding company would order something called "drops" for pennies on the price of "standard" lengths. I think "drops" means" pieces of SS that were not long enough to sell on the building market, but who knows....? I do remember, that availability was "when it became available!" 

    I would measure, cut with my angle grinder, and they would weld. 

    I also have pics of my bowsprit and Sampson posts. 

    On the other hand, if you are not a die-hard DIY-er, I strongly suggest Bud's products. 

    Ed & Karen s/v Caprica


     

    Not to hijack- but if you could post pictures of the sampson posts I would much appreciate it- I converted to Bud's stainless bowsprit and need to figure out new posts-  Thanks!
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